Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Cafayate, Argentina December 2011

Oh are we glad to land in Argentina at last! Although the Bolivian landscape is by far my favourite part of the trip so far, the trials and tribulations that come with its beauty have become tiresome. We are excited about being in a new country and welcome delicious Argentinian food and wine and sun and LUXURY, for we have finally decided we are creatures of comfort and shall treat ourselves as such. We travel first from Tupiza in Bolivia to Salta in Argentina, where we spend a lovely Christmas in strangely warm weather with the loveliest Danish couple ever! Christmas is celebrated on the eve and our hostel organises some traditional music & dancing followed by fireworks and wine and chat and nostalgic comparisons of each of our Christmas traditions. As we spent most of our time in Salta *ahem* drunk I unfortunately neglected the photo taking, which I really regret as this was such a beautiful city. Medium in size - I would estimate maybe the size of Cork City, with its beautiful plaza filled with life and outdoor courtyards and wine drinking and dancing, this is definitely a place I can see myself returning to live for a while. We spend a 3-4days here drinking wine under fairy-lights in the town plaza and playing endless games of cards with a group of Irish, American, Danish and Dutch people we have accumulated at our hostel.

On to Cafayate, a tiny country village with a tiny plaza filled with spectacularly beautiful, and amazingly friendly people. A strong family orientated culture in Argentina is evident, every Thursday evening, families of all ages ranging from toddlers to 90year olds gather to dance in the village square. A lively band encourages all to participate though the people do not need much encouraging. Teenage girls dance with one another, a 5year old boy dances and twirls with an 80year old woman, married couples, young lovers - they all gather here with such infectious community spirit that it makes you want to be Argentinian, to lay claim to such a beautiful culture. The most impressive part of this is that in no way whatsoever is alcohol involved, they do not 'need' it as I'm sure most Irish people could be quoted as saying.

Cafayate is set in a lush valley which receives strong sunshine during the day with cool night temperatures making it an ideal place for grapes to flourish & create delicious red & white wine..mmmm. Cafayates surrounding landscape is green and lush (unlike the road to get here which is dry and barren). For miles outside the village there is vineyard after vineyard, each laid out in perfect lines of cultivation and care. 

We visit all of the Bodegas in the town - each of them quite small in their production, one of them only making 20,000 bottles a year, most of which is sold in Argentina or exported to the US. So much delicious wine that we will never see on the shelves in Ireland! It is such an amazing treat to drink the wine where it is actually made and to see the care and dedication that goes into the cultivation of each bottle.

In the following days we rent bikes and cycle to the base of a nearby waterfall, which we then have to hike for 3hours to get to. As the waterfall is not immediately visible or easy to get to alone, we resort to a local 13year old guide who offers to take us there for 40soles each. Sold!

Vineyards on our cycle to the Waterfall




Reservoir of water for watering the vineyards at night

There's a little dog to the left which was running alongside the motorbike
the whole way!






View over the valley


The beginning of our climb



Waterfall beag - the first one we came to..


Did not think it would be hard...



Arrival at the big one!

So beautiful & serene, with only 2 or 3 others there





Wild horse along the way!

Local kids football pitch
We take a break & these goats just come out of nowhere??!



Who knew they were so nimble?




Horrible mosquito-bite ridden legs!

Then a whole family of puppies came out of nowhere!

Ahhh!! I love him!!

So hard to leave such cuteness....

We had to leave at some point buddy!
Random Arts & Crafts workshop in the village

Donal after the Bodegas with some wine drank & more in the hand  for later!


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