Monday, November 28, 2011

Colca Cayon Trek, Arequipa, Peru

A two day trek into the Colca Canyon, the second largest canyon in the world - we asked if it was hard before undertaking such a task, 'a little bit' was the deceptive response. We left our hostel at 3am cranky & sufficiently sleepy, picking up 5 other passengers/fellow trekkers along the way. Three girls get on with pink roller suitcases, I wonder if they know where they're going. 

First stop is 3hours later at Cabanaconda for a 6am breakfast of bread, cheese, jam & really really salty grey/brown eggs. We arrive at Cruz Del Condor at approx 7.15am where we are to see Condors in flight. Hovering on the hot air currents in the canyon these birds are marvelous to watch as they glide through the air. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures decent enough to add in here as they were too far away & fast moving to capture on camera. 

We begin our trek at 9am down into the canyon for 3hours straight until we reach the river at the bottom, cross a shaky little bridge, upon which our guide insists on jumping with each step. Death Imminent. Apres this ordeal we begin an uphill ascent, which lasts at most 10minutes, but unfortunately for three Russian girls in the group, lasted about 30. Armed with a pink handbag & fake nails, one of the girls is particularly unaware of the hikes difficulty and realises that what you trek down, you must trek up. 

Me, Donal & our new Canadian friend, Joel, speed on ahead leaving them behind, even though we ourselves were travelling at no great pace.
We reach our halfway point at approximately 1pm to a stunning little arrangement of bamboo cabins & well kept green gardens where it has been arranged for us to have lunch, pasta soup followed by alpaca stir-fry..yum! The Russians emerge from the mountainside finally, to adjust their make-up & decide with distain against the alpaca meat..a long day to take on with an empty stomach.

AND SO THE PENGUINS MARCHED ON...to arrive at the cliff edge where we could finally see our destination in far sight, a mirage of a clear blue oasis surrounded by plush green palm trees...oh but to be there with our feet in its cool waters! Our guide, Jhon, a friendly & good humoured Peruvian guy had a tricky day going back and forth between us and the Russians ensuring no one had fallen off the cliff face, while we trekked ahead and they struggled behind. But alas with our destination finally in sight we were determined to get there before sun down at 6pm...I cannot describe the feeling when we finally arrived there after a long, hard but extremely enjoyable day, to this Paradise of lovely green grass & trees with dangling white flowers with the appearance (but not the smell) of lilies.. Arrival at 5.15pm meant we had time for a well deserved swim. WOW. A night ahead of sleep in a mud-hut cabin with bamboo roof & no electricity ahead of us, so cool, it felt like we were camping!

A few beers and a pack of cards later (thanks Lynda!!) we had accumulated a group to play 'Asshole', a game with so many rules its impossible to not be the asshole at some point. Honestly, one of the best nights we've had so far, we met some really great & hilarious people.


Cruz Del Condor





Panoramic view of the Cruz Del Condor


Our trekking group Day 1


That little green hub of trees is our destination for day 1 & overnight stay


A much needed stop to change the socks!

If you can see people on the left it might indicate the scale of the climb

A little person to the left for scaling

The river at the bottom of the Canyon - this photo doesn't do the spectacular colours justice

Shaky bridge of death!


Stopping for a little bit of shade

The white veins through the landscape is the trail on the other side of the valley we came down




A sheep!


An irrigation system set up by the locals whereby mountain water collects here 
Poor Jhon, our guide ended up carrying the Russians pink bag!

Halfway point for lunch

Where we ate 

The kitchen where our lunch was cooked!

I keep thinking Donals right leg is mine..freaky

Donal & Jhon

Me & Jhon with warpaint/bug blood on our faces - hardcore!

Taking a break - it was tough work!



A piggy gets creative with his source of shade


The moment we finally saw the oasis in the distance!

A local passing us by with his Donkeys allows me to picture him

Another character passes us by - the happiest dog ever


Finally!!! PARADISE!!

The moment we arrived - I thought I wouldn't be able to take another step, I was in  bits!

Day two - after the final 3hours of uphill climbing - amazing. Colca Canyon Trek, one of the best things I've ever done.




There's nothing like supporting a bit of animal cruelty!

Arequipa, Peru Nov 2011 - Monastario De Santa Teresa

A 12 hour overnight bus from Ica to Arequipa finds us exhausted, and a little breathless with our adaptation to the new altitude. Having read far too many horror stories about night buses (I read one guys blog where his bus went off a cliff!), we got the most expensive bus company (Cruz Del Sur) where we were layed out on comfy cama beds, fed a hot meal and given a suitably cheesy, dubbed over in Spanish, Matthew McConnaughy who else film. Can't escape that flippin gobshite, not even in Peru. It was at this point I felt a pang of homesickness for my housemates who equally share my hatred of this man. Sob!

This city, the second largest in Peru surprised me on so many levels, mainly because I didn't read a whole pile on the place before we arrived, but also because it is absolutely nothing like Lima. Upmarket and well kept, this city has beautiful architecture, excellent restaurants, ice-creameries, fruit markets, wonderful clothes & alpaca woolen wear shops galore! Heaven! Huge Hazel will become Gigantosaurous-zel by the end of this trip. NOM!

Our first day here we met a few people who had shared our Matthew McConnaughy experience so we arranged to meet them for a drink at 9pm, in, yes, the local Irish bar. Cringe. Especial cringe when we had suggested the bar & then couldn't find it, only to show up a whopping 1hour & a half late. Eek. Despite our minor set back we got absolutely locked on 2 beers (altitude is my excuse), dropped & broke a bottle of beer on my own, and some Peruvian guys semi bare feet (flip flops), and talked drunkenly (super super cringe) about art/artists/how great art is/how much I know about Ort (Yaw) with our new Austrian friend. Aaaargh!!!

Following said art discussion, Donal reminds me I arranged for us to meet our Austrian friend at 1pm the next day. Super Aaaargh!!! We meet him bang on 1pm...we were kinda scared to be late...and he notes our surprising time keeping. Double Arrrgh! 

We decide on a museum where the frozen remains of a young girl 'Juanita, the ice princess' lie. Her remains were sacrificed to the Gods 500 years ago during Inca time when the Inca people believed they had to make offerings to the Gods to avoid punishment. The greatest offering believed to have been the life of a young child. They climbed to the top of Nevado Ampato and killed Juanita as an offering to the Gods. Juanita's body was found in 1995 completely preserved as ice had covered the mountain shortly after her death, preserving her exactly. Not unlike the bog bodies in Ireland. They believed that if they did not make a sacrifice to the Gods, they would be punished in the form of Volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, and other natural disasters. To this day Arequipa is plagued by volcanic eruptions & earthquakes - the most recent earthquake in 2001.

We also visited a monastery that used to be run by nuns - a beautiful building which has managed to stay put since the 17th Century despite the natural disasters in-between. Its obvious from the size, condition & amount of expensive artifacts remaining in the convent that they were incredibly wealthy nuns.


Courtyard at Monastario De Santa Teresa  





I just thought this was kind of cool..

Donal's Model shot - yaw!

My model Shot - Yaw!

Where the nuns used to sleep - creepy eh?

Where the nuns used to cook - the semi-circular holes beneath the cooking area was where they used to store the guinea pigs (cuy) before they gobbled them up!

I will have a dresser just like this someday! Gorgeous!

More cooking facilites - hole in the ceiling to let out the smoke. Unbelievably well preserved right down to the pots & pans.

Old school pestle & mortar along with a cheese grater...they don't make em like that these days hah!




Ha...more modelling!

This nun had a picture on her wall uncannily like Donal

Ah jayz, someone just give me the modeling job already

Spot the difference 1

Spot the difference 2


The amazing view of 'Misty' from the top terrace of the monastery